Guest post by my mother, Chris Levine!
Appalling was how Daniel accurately
described the circumstances that kept Ed and me from a long-awaited
and specially planned trip to meet Melissa and Ruth and him in at the
University of Ghana in Legon and to travel to the Tafi Atome Monkey
Sanctuary in the Volta Region of Ghana. in the Volta Region of Ghana.
Our three trying attempts
to reach Accra and our family are here documented.
Thursday
October
13 – On our way: YEA!
12:30 PM: departed Albany
for Atlanta
8PM: departed Atlanta,
FOR THE FIRST TIME; flew 3 ½ hours over Atlantic; returned to
Atlanta due to insufficient and non-flushing toilet facilities.
Supposedly, this difficulty would be corrected at 16K feet:
NOT; arrangements made by Delta for all passengers to check in at
various “local” hotels. However, most hotel shuttles had been
discontinued by 3AM.
Anxiety:
Do not want Daniel to stay behind; he worked so long on planning the
adventure to the monkey preserve for his family and friends! How to
contact Daniel – considering the four-hour time difference, Daniel
and Mr. Lartey repeatedly awaiting us at the airport, inability to
use cell phones/laptops while in air, etc., etc?
Friday
October
14 – Still not there
3AM: arrived at Marriott;
wait in queue for Delta passengers to be checked in
4AM to 8AM: attempted to
sleep
11AM: departed for
airport and a second security check-in
2PM: departed Atlanta,
FOR THE SECOND TIME - ON THE SAME AIRCRAFT; flew 2 ½ hours over
Atlantic; again returned to Atlanta due to insufficient and
non-flushing toilet facilities. Supposedly,
this difficulty was to have been corrected early that morning –
NOT! Déjà vu?
9PM: departed for Accra FOR THE THIRD
TIME – ON A DIFFERENT AIRCRAFT. NOT! We sat at the gate for two
hours, due to an instrument panel concern. Finally...
11:30PM: departed for Accra
Anxiety:
Do not want Daniel to stay behind; he worked so long on planning the
adventure to the monkey preserve for his family and friends! How to
contact Daniel – considering the four-hour time difference, Daniel
and Mr. Lartey repeatedly awaiting us at the airport, inability to
use cell phones/laptops while in air, etc., etc?
Saturday
October 15
– Exhausted and disappointed to have missed our trip
to the sanctuary; irate at Delta
1PM: arrived in Accra –
finally, but sadly hours after Daniel, family and friends had left
for the Tafi Atome Monkey
Sanctuary. We missed an adventure, yes; but, sadly to say, a young
girl on our flight missed seeing her mother before her mother passed
away.
Our
experience going through customs at Accra's Kotoka International
Airport
was facilitated by Stephen – a Ghanaian passenger with whom we had
become acquainted during our nightmarish flights. His driver sped us
to the Guest Centre and requested that we get the best
accommodations... we did: bright early morning sunshine and colorful
late afternoon sunsets!
5PM:
surprised by Theresa who had come to the Guest Centre at Daniel's
request to ensure that we had surely arrived, were given cell phones
with the urgency to call him, and to be invited to Sunday dinner at
the Fulbright flat.
Sunday
October 16
– Missing Daniel and Melissa and Ruth
This
was a relaxing day – once we'd slept in and had breakfast. The
Guest Centre was the perfect place for us to stay - it was just a
quick walk across the field to the Fulbright flat; provided
breakfast, and offered a restaurant. (Ruth especially liked their
pizza; Ed appreciated Star beer!) We were eager to see the campus,
so we toured around and chatted with students.
Later
in the day, we dined with Theresa and Bill. The dinner was so
delicious; the wine was so appreciated! Thanks, Theresa and Bill!
Monday
October
17
– Still
missing Daniel and Melissa and Ruth
Although
this was another relaxing day, we were eager to keep busy,
anticipating a late afternoon arrival of Daniel, Melissa and Ruth, so
we contacted Mr. Lartey to take up shopping at Game/Shop Rite.
Tuesday
October
18
– Bush Canteen
Each
day had a plan, because we wanted to spend time with Ruth and to give
Daniel and Melissa quality time in the three weeks Melissa was in
Ghana on holiday. On this day, we all met to tour some of the
expansive campus, be measured for and order dresses from Miss Gloria,
then enjoy dinner at Daniel's flat.
Fabulously
colored fabrics had been chosen by Daniel, Melissa, and Ruth when
they toured the Makola Market in Accra, prior to our arrival.
Wednesday
October
19–
Medina
Market
While
Daniel instructed his class, Ed, Melissa, Ruth, and I visited Medina
Market... so many patterns; so many colors! Later that evening,
Melissa and Daniel went on a “date,” and Ruth bunked in with us.
I awoke during the night to find that Ruth had put her big toe in my
belly button! When I told her, she laughed and laughed – and, of
course, tried to do the same each night she stayed with us. Well,
she's a fidgety sleeper, and her big toe found unusual places to land
– my ear, my head. One night I awoke to find her armpit straddling
my nose. How she giggled when I recounted her nightly wanderings!
Thursday
October
20 –
First
Nigerian
Dinner
Today
began with a pleasant breakfast with Dr. Ani, a colleague of Daniel's
in the Philosophy Department. It's pleasant to meet and chat with
visiting professors, parents, etc., who stay at the Guest Centre.
The day was filled with dress making, watching the students at their
dance/drum classes and eating plantain chips at Bush Canteen.
Dinner, our first of a number at the Nigerian restaurant, was
delicious: plantains, chicken, yams, salad, rice, and Star.
Friday
October
21
– Missing Melissa
Before
Melissa had to leave for home, we took Ruth to the University's pool.
Although the big pool was closed for cleaning, we did refresh in the
shallow baby pool. Ruth would have no part of the water, but
wandered around the edge, pretending she was Belle and Ariel and
Rapunzel. To distract her at Melissa's departure, we all watched
“Ratatouille” (for the ga-zillionth time) and pigged out on
pizza.
Saturday
October
22
– Dance Class
One
of the reasons we were in Ghana was to give care to Ruth - once
Melissa had returned home. This gave Daniel more time, while in
Legon, to spend with Ruth and less time, when she was in Baltimore,
to miss her. So... on many days, including this one, Ruth and I
would play dress-up or “school.”
Dressing-up
was easy given the number of doilies found in our hotel. These were
imagined to be veils and bridal dresses and capes and gowns. The
terraces were her stages or fashion runways or castle towers. Ruth's
imagination knows no bounds!
Later,
we walked over to the University's botanical gardens. The flora is
outstanding and the landscape quiet and serene. Ruth was hesitant to
return there, so Daniel and she hung out in the maze of gardens
behind the Balme Library.
Sunday
October
23
– La Beach
La
Beach is busy beach not too far from the University. It takes a
while to get there, though, as the traffic in Accra is maddening and
chaotic. So many cars and too few roads. Although I must say, I did
see more roads under construction in the north and west parts of the
city.
Ruth
loved to jump the waves, eat plantain chips, sip any flavor of
Alvero, bury my feet and her mermaid doll in the sand, watch the
pick-up soccer games, run after the horses roaming the beach, and
generally have unbridled fun!
Monday
October
24 –
“School”and Second
Nigerian
Dinner
Ruth
loves school and missed her freinds.
So...
while we were in Legon, she (the student) and I (the teacher) played
“school.“
First, we
would go to the “cafeteria” (aka Guest Centre restaurant) for a
healthy breakfast, then return to our flat for her “backpack” (a
large, plastic, Kente cloth-like sack I had purchased at the Medina
Market) and await the imaginary “bus” that took her and Addie and
Catherine and Isaiah to “school.”
“School”
was one of the outdoor tables at the Guest Centre. Each day was a
different “lesson”: reading (books by Ghanaian authors that
Daniel had bought her);
writing (drawing letters in the dirt); science (finding frogs hiding under lily pads);
writing (drawing letters in the dirt); science (finding frogs hiding under lily pads);
fashion design (wearing the dresses of colorful fabrics Mommy and Daddy had bought her); dance (practicing her ballet/jete); film (Ratatouille again?) and cosmetology (prepping for the Halloween party).
According
to the story Ruth tells...
Unfortunately,
one day (imaginary) Isaiah did not listen to his (imaginary) teacher
and ran across the (imaginary) street to the (imaginary) bus. He
broke his leg and had to stay in the (imaginary) hospital for FIVE
YEARS! Can you imagine???
“School”
always let out early, so that we could take “real” field trips to
La Beach, the coffin makers, drumming/dance classes, and to the
University's Archeology Museum. Ruth was most impressed with the old
pottery there – especially one that looked like a cupcake tin. She
was also impressed with the human skeleton hanging in a glass box.
Daniel was less impressed with her "enthusiasm," hoping
that she would not run into these artifacts and cause an
international incident!
Later
that night, Daniel joined us for a goat dinner at the Nigerian
restaurant.
Tuesday
October
25
– In Search of License Plates
Each
day, Ed would roam the campus and local communities searching for
license plates. “Pay dirt” was at the junk yard behind the
University's fire department! While he treasured hunted, Ruth and I
would listen to the student drum classes and watch the dance classes.
Today, we watched as students played xylophone made from gourds.
Later we met Daniel and again visited the Archeology Museum. Ruth
wanted to show him the pottery... her enthusiasm, however, made us a
bit nervous.
Wednesday
October
26
– Shangri-La
AH!
The Shangri-La had a wonderful, cooling pool. This day, a number of
kids were assembling for swim classes. Ruth had fun chatting with
the kids, sharing their toys. One little boy, Laurence, from Italy
had a little boat that Ruth enjoyed. His mom bought Ruth sweet
treat: chocolate gelato! She enjoyed it totally – did not want my
“help” in keeping it from melting... Does this bring back rainbow
sherbert and bubble gum ice cream memories, Daniel?
Thursday
October
27
– Shai Hills and Cedi Bead Factory
What
fun to see the baboons and the ostrich! While Daniel and Grampy and
Timothy hiked off in search of the elusive antelope, Ruth and I joked
that perhaps the antelope would graze by us,
as we waited by the car. Unfortunately, NOT. But we did have our
own fun time singing: Home,
home on the range, where the deer and the antelope roam...
Believe it or not: the US did, at one time, have roaming herds of
bison, antelope, etc.
The
Cedi Bead Factory, although a challenge to find, was fascinating.
The explanation/demonstration of the process was short and clear and
fascinating to Ruth. At Daniel's suggestion, she chose beads for
herself and Mommy and her friends at the Y.
Friday
October
28
– Dad and Daniel Dine Out; Grammy and Ruth Dine In
Today
was a “flop” day. Ruth attended “school,” then we met Daniel
for a visit to the Archeology Museum and Bus Canteen. In the
evening, Daniel and Ed went for a quiet dad-son dinner; Ruth and I
ate pizza – well, I savored a piece or two. Ruth ate four slices!
But, as Bill Cosby would rationalize... most food groups were
represented: dairy, grain, fats, vegetables...
Saturday
October
29 –
Adinkra
Durbar
and Third
Nigerian
Dinner
While
Daniel did more work and research, we thought we'd take Ruth to a new
market that Ed had noticed on campus. Luckily, we happened upon the
Adinkra Durbar, as “annual traditional festival celebrated in the
University of Ghana to display the rich Ghanaian cultural heritage
and to install a new student chief known as the Chief Farmer for
Akuafo Hall. The durbar showcases
traditional African dances, costumes and culture. On display and sale
at this special occasion are Ghanaian dishes, drinks, artifacts,
dresses and cloths. Ruth was in royal heaven!
While we were at the festival, I
bought jewelry from a local artisan, Ruth had her hair braided,
Daniel relished Ruth's enthusiasm, and Ed made another license plate
connection.
That evening, Ed and I had our third
dinner with Theresa and Bill at the Nigerian restaurant. I had
arranged for another meal of roasted goat. (Unfortunately, we were
given the sad news that the restaurant was moving to a new on-campus
site.) We later attended a dramatic production at the Efua
Sutherland Theater, while Ruth and Daniel had fun at the [REDACTED - Ed.] Halloween Party.
Sunday
October
30 – Coco Beach
We
had a fun day at Coco Beach. Many kids eager to interact with Ruth.
We later ate lunch overlooking the ocean and Ruth eagerly played on
the hotel playground. This reminded me of the time we took Daniel
and David to Québec
City.
They had such fun on a rocket-ship-shaped jungle gym, unheading of
the fact that Québec
City
is a major cultural center of the French-speaking world! But, Ed and
I had such fun watching them and munching on buttery croissants!
Monday
October
31
– Grampy and Grammy's Accra Adventure
This
day, Daniel wanted to spend quality/quantity time with Ruth at the
Medina Market. So, Ed and I tried to take a tro-tro to downtown
Accra. However, despite Daniel's very thorough explanation of how to
do this, after nearly an hour, we opted for a taxi. We devised our
own walking tour from the lighthouse, into the heart of the city and
Makola Market to the Kwame Nkrumah Mausoleum to Independence Square
to the Cultural Centre to Osu for a Chinese dinner. The day-long
tour was entertaining and exhausting, but it was well worth our time
and energy!
Tuesday
November
1
– More of the Campus
While
Daniel taught, we took Ruth on an extended tour of the campus. She
imagined the white-washed buildings to be castles. She was the
Princess Ariel, and Grampy was Prince Eric.
At
one dorm, high on a hill overlooking distant Accra, we found a box
designated for clothing/book donations to a local orphanage. We
later brought some of Ruth's summer clothes and oft-read books here.
Wednesday
November
2
– Teaching and Swimming and Dancing
While
Daniel taught, we took Ruth to the University's pool. This time, the
kiddy pool was closed, but we made our own kiddy pool by adding water
to a foot-washing basin. Ruth had a ball! She bathed her two dolls,
both named Kelly Piskelly, and squirted me with the hose. We brought
a picnic lunch and danced to religious music blaring from a TV on the
pool terrace. A hot walk home was cooled by a drippy/delicious ice
cream from the Night Market!
Thursday
November
3 – Flop Day
Daniel
had to conduct interviews at Burma Camp, as we went to the Bush
Canteen for a lunch of authentic Ghanian foods. Authentic food for
Ruth was Alvaro – a rich blend between malt-beer and fruit. NOT to
worry! It's non alcoholic, is golden in color, and comes in fruit a
number of flavors-Ruth preferred passion fruit. While we ate lunch
at the open-air canteen, we were amazed at the difficult/lengthy
process of making banku.
Friday
November
4 –
The Coffin Makers
This
was the day that we had set aside to see the coffin makers, since
none were open/found on Sunday when we were at Coco Beach. However,
Daniel was unable to join us, as he was requested to conduct
additional interviews at Burma Camp. We drove to Teshie-Nungua with
Mr. Lartey and were fascinated by the making, all by hand, of the
curious coffins. As the day was getting hotter, and we were getting
droopy, we decided to skip another visit to La Beach and just stop
for lunch at the Next Door Restaurant. Surprisingly, Daniel called.
He had finished his interviews and would join us! What fun – to
relax by the ocean and wade in the surf!
Saturday
November
5 to Monday November 7 –
Our Trip to Elmina, Ghana
Ed
and I took a three-day excursion to Elmina, Ghana. Because Ghana is
developing its infrastructure, we experienced a long, Saturday
morning delay in traffic, due to road construction. The three-hour
trip took five! However, one past the outskirts of west Accra, our
bus sped along beaches and small villages and by-way vendors to
Elmina. There we visited the slave castle El Mina, the fish markets,
the posubans, Kakum National Park (canopy walk, tree platform, etc.)
and Hans Cottage Botel (lunch and a crocodile scare!). On the return
trip, we took a tro-tro, must to Daniel's disdain/surprise. It was a
speedy trip – only 2 ½ hours! Along the way, to the delight (I
think they were delighted, not derided) of the Ghanaian riders, we
sampled various foods offered by the by-way vendors: corn cakes,
plantain chips, bo froot, etc. YUMMY!
Tuesday
November
8 to 9– Back to the USA
Although
Daniel taught this last day of our visit, we did meet him at his
office and observed his class. What was touching is that as he
lectured, Ruth would occasionally raise her hand, as if to say:
Might
you expand on that point?
or I'd
like to add to that comment.
It was so cute! Had Daniel noticed, he said he would have called on
her! I wonder what she would have said.
Daniel
hung out with Ruth, napping with and reading to her, before we left
for the airport. AT the airport, our nightmare of our arrival was
documented: a Delta rep upgraded us to business class ad invited us
to the classy Sky Lounge. Ruth loved the glitz and glamor and FOOD!
Thankfully,
our return flight was uneventful. Ruth was THE BEST of travelers and
stated to Melissa that, because she was such a “good listener” on
this long flight, she could now go to China with Grampy. Yes!
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